The Dachshund
If you are considering adding a Dachshund to your family, please take a moment to read the following information.
Dachshund History & Origin
The primary purpose for which the Dachshund was developed was to hunt the badger. The Dachshund (translation: Badger Dog) required specific traits such as courage, stamina & perseverance beyond what is usually expected of any other hunting dog. The breed's deep sonorous bark is a special advantage, for it enabled the hunter to determine what was going on down in the badger hole.
The authentic origin of the Dachshund as a breed can be traced to Germany during the years 1550-1850 when German foresters, gamekeepers, and sportsmen first selected their dogs because of their affinity to go underground and fearlessly fight the badger, a vicious, saber-clawed antagonists weighing anywhere from 25 to 40 pounds.
The Dachshund first appeared in the United States between 1879 and 1885. World War I almost spelled the end for the Dachsie. Anti German sentiment made it uncomfortable to own a Dachshund but the breed survived only to once again encounter anti German sentiment during World War II. After the war, the Dachshund Club of America., Inc. carried out a successful educational campaign and the Dachshund has endured enormous popularity ever since.
The Dachshund has something no other breed has: it comes in more sizes, coats and colors than man ever created in his endeavors. The two sizes, Standard & Miniature come in several colors with black, black & tan, and red being the most common. Their coats are distinguished by three varieties: Smooth, Longhaired and Wire-haired.
General Appearance
Low to ground, long in body and short of leg with robust muscular development, the skin is elastic and pliable without excessive wrinkling. Appearing neither crippled, awkward, nor cramped in his capacity for movement, the Dachshund is well-balanced with bold and confident head carriage and intelligent, alert facial expression. His hunting spirit, good nose, loud tongue and distinctive build make him well-suited for below-ground work and for beating the bush. His keen nose gives him an advantage over most other breeds for trailing. Note: In as much as the Dachshund is a hunting dog, scars from honorable wounds shall not be considered a fault.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Bred and shown in two sizes, standard and miniature, miniatures are not a separate classification but compete in a class division for "11 pounds and under at 12 months of age and older." Weight of the standard size is usually between 16 and 32 pounds.
Head
Viewed from above or from the side, the head tapers uniformly to the tip of the nose. The eyes are of medium size, almond-shaped and dark-rimmed, with an energetic, pleasant expression; not piercing; very dark in color. The bridge bones over the eyes are strongly prominent. Wall eyes, except in the case of dappled dogs, are a serious fault. The ears are set near the top of the head, not too far forward, of moderate length, rounded, not narrow, pointed, or folded. Their carriage, when animated, is with the forward edge just touching the cheek so that the ears frame the face. The skull is slightly arched, neither too broad nor too narrow, and slopes gradually with little perceptible stop into the finely-formed, slightly arched muzzle. Black is the preferred color of the nose. Lips are tightly stretched, well covering the lower jaw. Nostrils well open. Jaws opening wide and hinged well back of the eyes, with strongly developed bones and teeth. Teeth--Powerful canine teeth; teeth fit closely together in a scissors bite. An even bite is a minor fault. Any other deviation is a serious fault.
Neck
Long, muscular, clean-cut, without dewlap, slightly arched in the nape, flowing gracefully into the shoulders.
Trunk
The trunk is long and fully muscled. When viewed in profile, the back lies in the straightest possible line between the withers and the short very slightly arched loin. A body that hangs loosely between the shoulders is a serious fault. Abdomen--Slightly drawn up.
Forequarters
For effective underground work, the front must be strong, deep, long and cleanly muscled. Forequarters in detail: Chest-- The breastbone is strongly prominent in front so that on either side a depression or dimple appears. When viewed from the front, the thorax appears oval and extends downward to the mid-point of the forearm. The enclosing structure of well-sprung ribs appears full and oval to allow, by its ample capacity, complete development of heart and lungs. The keel merges gradually into the line of the abdomen and extends well beyond the front legs. Viewed in profile, the lowest point of the breast line is covered by the front leg. Shoulder Blades--Long, broad, well-laid back and firmly placed upon the fully developed thorax, closely fitted at the withers, furnished with hard yet pliable muscles. Upper Arm--Ideally the same length as the shoulder blade and at right angles to the latter, strong of bone and hard of muscle, lying close to the ribs, with elbows close to the body, yet capable of free movement. Forearm--Short; supplied with hard yet pliable muscles on the front and outside, with tightly stretched tendons on the inside and at the back, slightly curved inwards. The joints between the forearms and the feet (wrists) are closer together than the shoulder joints, so that the front does not appear absolutely straight. Knuckling over is a disqualifying fault. Feet--Front paws are full, tight, compact, with well-arched toes and tough, thick pads. They may be equally inclined a trifle outward. There are five toes, four in use, close together with a pronounced arch and strong, short nails. Front dewclaws may be removed.
Hindquarters
Strong and cleanly muscled. The pelvis, the thigh, the second thigh, and the metatarsus are ideally the same length and form a series of right angles. From the rear, the thighs are strong and powerful. The legs turn neither in nor out. Metatarsus-- Short and strong, perpendicular to the second thigh bone. When viewed from behind, they are upright and parallel. Feet--Hind Paws--Smaller than the front paws with four compactly closed and arched toes with tough, thick pads. The entire foot points straight ahead and is balanced equally on the ball and not merely on the toes. Rear dewclaws should be removed. Croup--Long, rounded and full, sinking slightly toward the tail. Tail-- Set in continuation of the spine, extending without kinks, twists, or pronounced curvature, and not carried too gaily.
Gait
Fluid and smooth. Forelegs reach well forward, without much lift, in unison with the driving action of hind legs. The correct shoulder assembly and well-fitted elbows allow the long, free stride in front. Viewed from the front, the legs do not move in exact parallel planes, but incline slightly inward to compensate for shortness of leg and width of chest. Hind legs drive on a line with the forelegs, with hocks (metatarsus) turning neither in nor out. The propulsion of the hind leg depends on the dog's ability to carry the hind leg to complete extension. Viewed in profile, the forward reach of the hind leg equals the rear extension. The thrust of correct movement is seen when the rear pads are clearly exposed during rear extension. Feet must travel parallel to the line of motion with no tendency to swing out, cross over, or interfere with each other. Short, choppy movement, rolling or high-stepping gait, close or overly wide coming or going are incorrect. The Dachshund must have agility, freedom of movement, and endurance to do the work for which he was developed.
Temperament
The Dachshund is clever, lively and courageous to the point of rashness, persevering in above and below ground work, with all the senses well-developed. Any display of shyness is a serious fault. The Dachshund loves to be the center of attention at all family activities and is not suited to be an “outside” pet.
Special Characteristics of the Three Coat Varieties
The Dachshund is bred with three varieties of coat: (1) Smooth; (2) Wirehaired; (3) Longhaired and is shown in two sizes, standard and miniature. All three varieties and both sizes must conform to the characteristics already specified. The following features are applicable for each variety:
Smooth Dachshund
Coat - Short, smooth and shining. Should be neither too long nor too thick. Ears not leathery.
Tail - Gradually tapered to a point, well but not too richly haired. Long sleek bristles on the underside are considered a patch of strong-growing hair, not a fault. A brush tail is a fault, as is also a partly or wholly hairless tail.
Color of Hair - Although base color is immaterial, certain patterns and basic colors predominate. One-colored Dachshunds include red (with or without a shading of interspersed dark hairs or sable) and cream. A small amount of white on the chest is acceptable, but not desirable. Nose and nails--black.
Two-colored Dachshunds include black, chocolate, wild boar, gray (blue) and fawn (Isabella), each with tan markings over the eyes, on the sides of the jaw and underlip, on the inner edge of the ear, front, breast, inside and behind the front legs, on the paws and around the anus, and from there to about one-third to one-half of the length of the tail on the underside. Undue prominence or extreme lightness of tan markings is undesirable. A small amount of white on the chest is acceptable but not desirable. Nose and nails--in the case of black dogs, black; for chocolate and all other colors, dark brown, but self-colored is acceptable.
Dappled Dachshunds--The "single" dapple pattern is expressed as lighter-colored areas contrasting with the darker base color, which may be any acceptable color. Neither the light nor the dark color should predominate. Nose and nails are the same as for one and two-colored Dachshunds. Partial or wholly blue (wall) eyes are as acceptable as dark eyes. A large area of white on the chest of a dapple is permissible.
A "double" dapple is one in which varying amounts of white coloring occur over the body in addition to the dapple pattern. Nose and nails: as for one and two-color Dachshunds; partial or wholly self-colored is permissible.
Brindle is a pattern (as opposed to a color) in which black or dark stripes occur over the entire body although in some specimens the pattern may be visible only in the tan points.
Wirehaired Dachshund
Coat - With the exception of jaw, eyebrows, and ears, the whole body is covered with a uniform tight, short, thick, rough, hard, outer coat but with finer, somewhat softer, shorter hairs (undercoat) everywhere distributed between the coarser hairs. The absence of an undercoat is a fault. The distinctive facial furnishings include a beard and eyebrows. On the ears the hair is shorter than on the body, almost smooth. The general arrangement of the hair is such that the wirehaired Dachshund, when viewed from a distance, resembles the smooth. Any sort of soft hair in the outercoat, wherever found on the body, especially on the top of the head, is a fault. The same is true of long, curly, or wavy hair, or hair that sticks out irregularly in all directions.
Tail - Robust, thickly haired, gradually tapering to a point. A flag tail is a fault.
Color of Hair - While the most common colors are wild boar, black and tan, and various shades of red, all colors are admissible. A small amount of white on the chest, although acceptable, is not desirable. Nose and nails--same as for the smooth variety.
Longhaired Dachshund
Coat - The sleek, glistening, often slightly wavy hair is longer under the neck and on the forechest, the underside of the body, the ears, and behind the legs. The coat gives the dog an elegant appearance. Short hair on the ear is not desirable. Too profuse a coat which masks type, equally long hair over the whole body, a curly coat, or a pronounced parting on the back are faults.
Tail - Carried gracefully in prolongation of the spine; the hair attains its greatest length here and forms a veritable flag.
Color of Hair - Same as for the smooth Dachshund. Nose and nails--same as for the smooth.
The foregoing description is that of the ideal Dachshund. Any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation keeping in mind the importance of the contribution of the various features toward the basic original purpose of the breed.
Care of the Dachshund
How to Care for a Dachshund
The long-bodied and independent dachshund is likely to bowl you over with its affectionate and lively personality. It is truly happy when with its human family. However, remember to train your dachshund at an early age; this shrewd and stubborn dog will try to outfox you.
Steps
1. Vaccinate your dachshund when you first get her, and see that she gets yearly booster vaccinations 
to maintain her immunity to disease. Also worm your adult dog every three months and consult with
your veterinarian about flea control products.
2. Feed your dachshund high-grade dog food. The first ingredient should be meat (absolutely no bi-
products) if you want a quality product. Crude protein should be no less than 30 percent and crude fat
no less than 20 percent. The fiber content needs to be 4 percent or less. There should be no corn in the
ingredients also.
3. Avoid overfeeding your dachshund. This breed gains weight rapidly.
4. Socialize your dachshund to be with children and other animals. Because dachshunds are irritated easily, they are not always good with very small children and may bite them.
5. Be diligent and persevering when you train your dachshund. Training can be difficult because of the dachshund's willful personality and need to be in charge. (Note that food is a great motivator.) Also, be aware that dachshunds can be difficult to house-train.
6. Exercise or walk your dachshund daily. Be careful not to let her leap or jump up. Dachshunds can easily damage their spines because of their long backs.
7. Brush longhaired dachshunds daily. Smooth-haired dogs need to be cleaned often with a damp cloth. Have a wirehaired dachshund's coat trimmed a couple of times a year by a professional. All three types are medium shedders.
8. Bathe your dog monthly and trim her nails every 7 – 10 days.
9. Understand that dachshunds are prone to certain health conditions such as ruptured or slipped spinal disks, heart disease and obesity.
10. Know that miniature dachshunds grow to 14 inches and should weigh 11 lbs and under. Standard dachshunds grow between 14 and 18 inches and weigh between 16 and 32 lbs.
11. Expect dachshunds to live 12 to 15 years.
Tips & Warnings
• Make sure your dachshund's back is horizontally aligned when you pick her up or carry her, so you prevent back injuries.
• Dachshunds love to play and participate in all activities.
• Dachshunds are diggers.
Overall Things You'll Need
•Dog Brushes
•Dog Food
•Dog Conditioner
•Dog Collars
•Nail Clippers For Dogs
•Dog Bones
•Dog Shampoo
•Dog Grooming Sprays
•Dog Toys
•Dental Kits (for Dogs)
•Dog Flea/tick Control Medication
•Dog Leashes
•Dog Tags
•Dog Beds
•Dog Treats
•Dog Dishes
•High-quality Dog Food – This breeder recommends “Nutro Natural Choice”
Crate Training
Crate Training and "Potty" Training
Remember that repetition is necessary. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him/her the desired behavior MANY times.
Keep in mind also that your puppy does not know what is expected and must be shown the proper place to eliminate, and when.
Your best potty training friend is your crate. When you cannot watch your puppy, use a crate. Think of the crate the same way you think of a playpen for a human child. Even if you are only leaving the room for a "minute," either take the puppy with you or use the crate. After all, you would not leave a toddler in the house alone "for just a minute" would you?
Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. The DEN is an integral part of the wild dog’s upbringing and safety zone. The same thing applies to the "crate". Giving the pup special "treats" is a great way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate.
Use the crate wisely. Don't crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the puppy in the crate while you are home as well. Use it as a "safe" zone, or for "time outs". (Thus keeping your sanity)
By crating when you are home AND while you are gone, the puppy becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving him/her alone. This helps to eliminate separation anxiety later in life.
Most puppies will not soil their "den." The first couple of tries you might have some accidents, but don't be discouraged. An easy way to avoid accidents in the night for the first few weeks is by following this routine:
1. Set your alarm for about 3 hrs after your normal bed time. When the alarm goes off, get up immediately, go to the crate and CARRY the pup outside (I do this in my robe, with my shoes kept by the door to the outside). Place him on the ground and encourage him to eliminate. PRAISE when he does, and bring him back to the crate. Go back to bed.
2. Set your alarm for another 3 hrs, and get back to sleep. When the alarm goes off repeat part 1.
3. After about a week of the above routine, IF it has been successful (no crate messing) then you can set the alarm for * way through your sleep time. Follow the remainder of part 1. When you arise in the morning, TAKE the pup outside BEFORE you do anything else. Feed the pup and then crate. Follow your regular waking routine, then walk the pup one more time before going off to work.
4. Repeat the feeding, walking and crating at lunch time. Pups from the ages of 2 to 4 months CANNOT control their elimination for much more than 4 hours, so if you cannot return home at lunch time, arrange for someone to do this for you at lunch.
If the CRATE is too large, the pup can easily soil on one side and sleep on the other. The way to prevent this is to buy a crate that will accommodate your pet when it is fully grown. Then get a box that will fit inside the back of the crate. The box should be large enough that there is only room for the puppy to stand and lie down comfortably.
As the puppy grows, provide more room by putting in a smaller box, or cutting down the size. When the puppy reliably asks to be put outside to eliminate, remove the box so the puppy can use the whole crate.
If the puppy messes the crate, replace the box size to the point at which the puppy was reliable, and just give the pup a little more time to learn. In conjunction with crate training, potty training starts immediately.
Whenever you remove the puppy from the crate or just want the puppy to "go potty," take the dog to the door that will always be used to "go outside." Use the SAME door throughout the training period.
On the handle of this door, tie a bell to a string, dropping it even with the height of the puppy's nose. When you bring the puppy to the door, lure the puppy to touch the bell with either it's nose or paw, (using a treat) causing the bell to ring.
After the puppy rings the bell, give it the treat, (use a SMALL piece of meat or dried liver) and say "OUTSIDE" in a happy tone of voice. Take the puppy outside on leash.
Reminder: During housebreaking DO NOT allow the pup outside to eliminate alone or loose in the yard. Yes, that means in the rain, snow, whatever: YOU GO OUTSIDE ALSO. Give the puppy plenty of time. Don't rush or you will be sorry. When the puppy urinates or defecates, praise the puppy with "Good Outside" and again, give the puppy a tiny, tiny treat.
Continue to wait. When the puppy poops, again praise the puppy with "Good Outside" and give a treat. Go back inside, stop at the door again, and treat once again. If the puppy does not "potty" even after staying outside 15 minutes, return back inside, place the puppy back into the crate, wait 15 minutes and start again from the beginning.
If done religiously, this training process should take only about 2 weeks for the puppy to understand. This method will work with any dog, regardless of age. If you adopt a dog from a shelter or a rescue program, follow the same routine. Remember, even though the dog is older or even an adult, he still does not know the rules of your home, and may not have ever BEEN in a house. Be PATIENT and this method WILL work.
Take it slow and easy...be PATIENT....and have FUN with your dog!
(This section Copyright© Lyn Richards)
Spay and Neutering Your Pet
Many responsible breeders sell puppies/dogs on spay/neuter contracts.
•Spaying and neutering helps dogs and cats live longer, healthier lives.
•Spaying and neutering can eliminate or reduce the incidence of a number of health problems that can be very difficult or expensive to treat.
•Spaying eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer and greatly reduces the incidence of breast cancer, particularly when your pet is spayed before her first estrous cycle.
•Neutering eliminates testicular cancer and decreases the incidence of prostate disease.
•Breeders work very hard to maintain “correctness” of the breed, which is done by studying pedigrees and years of education and hands-on experience. Lots of money, time and efforts have gone into breeder’s lines and they want to preserve what it has taken them years to develop.
UNABLE TO CARE FOR YOUR DACHSHUND?
This breeder requires that if “you are unable to care for your dachshund, at any time during it’s life, you are to return the dog to her immediately.” NEVER, I repeat NEVER take your Dachshund to an animal shelter. Contact your breeder , if you cannot locate the breeder, then contact a Dachshund Rescue group. There are many reputable Dachshund Rescue groups available in this and other countries. You may also contact: The Dachshund Club of America Rescue Chairperson.
