Spray bottle with conditioning spray (plain water can be used too)
GROOMING A LONG HAIR DACHSHUND
Be sure to hold the stripper knife correctly as there is a right and wrong side.
This is NOT the side you use facing the dog.
NOTE: There is a right-handed and left-handed stripper knife. Be sure and order the correct one for you.
This is the correct side that should be facing the dog while stripping.
A stripper knife has two functions, one to strip the undercoat and one to break the hair. For this illustration I will only be discussing stripping the undercoat.
Knife should be held as flush with the body as possible.
Use long strokes as not to gouge holes in the hair.
A tremendous amount of hair will come out the first time you strip your dog.
Do this at least every other day and if that is not possible a minimum of weekly.
This is an example of the undercoat hair that will result from using the stripper knife.
Go over the entire body, including backs of front legs, neck, back, sides, rear and tail.
Neck:
The neck should have a clean appearance, very short to the skin. Hold the thinning shears in the direction of the hair growth and trim the hair until the desired length.
Using the thinning shears in the method is called "sculpting".
Continue this to the sides of the neck just to where the hair meets on the sides of the neck (the zipper).
ONLY shorten/sculpt the hair in front of the neck to the top of the chest bone, then on each side of the bone go a bit lower as to show the "dimples" as described in the breed standard.
The neck should look like this when you have completed sculpting.
Side view of neck.
As you can see there is a bit of hair that needs more sculpting in the center of the neck. Trim this just as illustrated before.
BACK OF NECK
(sorry, forgot pictures)
You will be "thinning the hair on the back of the neck so go against the hair growth making two (2) cuts at a time, using the comb or slicker brush to see result of cut. You may also do this to top of head if necessary.
EARS
Use stripper knife on ears gently as to only remove undercoat. Bottom of ear should be thinned very close for a nice smooth look.
(pictures will be posted soon).
REAR LEG:
The hair on the rear leg should be straight with the back of the leg. This picture depicts the before picture.
NOTE:
There is an exception to this.
When dog is in a stacked position the back of the leg should be vertical to the ground, so to properly sculpt it your dog should be in a stacked position to achieve the correct appearance when finished.
Again, you are "sculpting" the leg so hold and cut in the direction of the hair growth.
Continue sculpting until you achieve the desired affect.
FRONT FOOT
Use the slicker brush or comb and comb hair in the opposite direction of growth.
Then, using thinning shears, cut in the direction of the hair growth sculpting until desired appearance.
With your fingers, pull hairs up from between toes and sculpt this hair also.
Foot should appear "natural" and not cut.
DO NOT cut down between the toes.
NOTE:
This stage took 2 hours to complete.
2-3 more hours will be required to complete this dog.
More things to do...
Thin body hair,
Sculpt body hair.
Trim anal area and a 1 inch section of tail nearest the body.
Break hair on ears to more uniform look.
BACK OF FRONT FOOT
The section of hair between the foot pads and the ankle pad (see arrow) should be sculpted short like the neck.
PADS
Use scissors and trim all hair sticking out of the pads as close as you can. You may also use electric shears using at least a 10 blade.
DO NOT cut up into pad where it meets the front of the foot.
Cut slowly as to not cut the pads...they will bleed.
You may use the thinning shears in this fashion as to not cut the long hair of the leg.
I hope you find this page useful.
I am in no way a professional groomer and am only passing along tips that I have learned from various breeders.
If you try the things I have suggested you do so at your own risk. I assume no liabilities.
